It seemed appropriate that I peered out the window and looked at rain soaked vines in Barsac. That same moisture and humidity that I'm feeling in January makes a glorious fungus possible, Botrytis Cinerea, "Noble Rot" , in August and September. Ah, the mysteries of nature...
It always amazes me how sweet wines with great acidity jump out and wake your palate up. Earlier in the trip I had an exciting Vouvray Moulleux made from Chenin, then a few sips of Banyul, and now Semillon in all its glory. For me the Roumieu-Lacoste's "Cuvee Classique" was gorgeous, possessing a refreshing sweetness of fruit without ever being cloying. Two other cuvee's, "Leon" and "Andre" take character and intensity to the next level, but for me lose the versatility of the original wine. I was fortunate enough to taste a bottle of the "Classique" from 1959 and trust me, you don't need to be over the top to stand the test of time. Overall, I think there is reason to be excited by the current vintages. '07 is ripe, '08 is balanced, and '09 appears to be both.
For the dry whites of Bordeaux, I found all the vintages tasty with '08 showing the most acidity and great balance at the moment.
I found the most difference in vintages in red Burgundy and red Bourdeaux. In Bordeaux, those differences bordered on downright unappealling. Given the option on red Bordeaux I'll be purchasing '05, '07, and '09. My palate likes the greater amount of fruit showing in those vintages. We'll see where it all shakes out in time. My bets are on '05 and '09.
I'm back in the states now and reviewing my notes, so we'll see how things get remembered without the aid of ambience.
Sante!
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
36 Hours of Sunshine
7:00 AM - No hot water in the shower
7:15 AM - No hot water in the sink
8:00 AM - Minimal breakfast, surly waitress
8:15 AM - Walked outside raining, cold, not light yet
Now - Just checked Paris weather and rain/snow mix through Friday
And the day doesn't start for 30 minutes, so let me harken back to a kinder, gentler day when the sun warmed my sweater, I could look out onto Med, and breathe in the garrigue in the air...
OK, I'm back in reality...I finished in the wilds of the Languedoc yesterday and drove across the Masif Central to the rain in Bordeaux. I tasted two outstanding producers outside the village of Faugeres, Maxime Magnon and Leon Barral. Each is a disciple of biodynamic farming, but rather than burying cow horns under the full moon, they take a simpler and tastier approach that is a full circle of life. Pigs, piglets, and goats wander the vineyards fertilizing and weeding. The grapes love it and grow strong and healthy, and then the animals arrive monthly on the table. Full circle, as only Didier Barral can describe it.
As for the wines, Magnon's Corbiere's is cheap, but it is by far the most fresh and exciting expression of the appellation I've had the good fortune to taste. You can tell Maxime apprenticed under Marcel Lapierre, because the Beaujolais "joie de vivre" jumps from each glass. Didier's wines are a touch wilder and more exotic, but cut from a similar cloth, with just enough difference to make things interesting. These wines put sunshine in my glass on an overcast day.
Cheers for Now
7:15 AM - No hot water in the sink
8:00 AM - Minimal breakfast, surly waitress
8:15 AM - Walked outside raining, cold, not light yet
Now - Just checked Paris weather and rain/snow mix through Friday
And the day doesn't start for 30 minutes, so let me harken back to a kinder, gentler day when the sun warmed my sweater, I could look out onto Med, and breathe in the garrigue in the air...
OK, I'm back in reality...I finished in the wilds of the Languedoc yesterday and drove across the Masif Central to the rain in Bordeaux. I tasted two outstanding producers outside the village of Faugeres, Maxime Magnon and Leon Barral. Each is a disciple of biodynamic farming, but rather than burying cow horns under the full moon, they take a simpler and tastier approach that is a full circle of life. Pigs, piglets, and goats wander the vineyards fertilizing and weeding. The grapes love it and grow strong and healthy, and then the animals arrive monthly on the table. Full circle, as only Didier Barral can describe it.
As for the wines, Magnon's Corbiere's is cheap, but it is by far the most fresh and exciting expression of the appellation I've had the good fortune to taste. You can tell Maxime apprenticed under Marcel Lapierre, because the Beaujolais "joie de vivre" jumps from each glass. Didier's wines are a touch wilder and more exotic, but cut from a similar cloth, with just enough difference to make things interesting. These wines put sunshine in my glass on an overcast day.
Cheers for Now
Sunday, January 17, 2010
2010 Loire Tasting Notes
Tasting Notes
Kermit Lynch – Loire – 2010
Joguet – Chinon
• Winemaker – FX Joguet
• Specialty – Cab Franc, single vineyard
• Organic
• Soils – Combo of Sand, Limestone, and Clay
• Harvests about 50% allowable maximum
• Factoid – Aubert D’ Villaine from DRC helped Kermit discover this property
• Favorite Bottlings –
o Cuvee Terroir – Sandy soil, aged in Inox and old oak
o Chene Vert – Clay and limestone, aged in barrique, 30% new wood, ages great. 2001 showed really exotic notes on the nose, sweet red fruit in the mouth. Fine tannins show continued potential. Bottling he seems most proud of, tasted back to ’96 w/ consistent notes – picks up leathery, shroomy, truffly note on older wines
o Clos de la Dioterie – Limestone, 80 year old vines, 2HA, clean and precise with exotic notes. Didn’t taste older bottling. Seemed to start w/ more precision than Chene Vert.
Champalou – Vouvray
• Specialty – Chenin Blanc
• Soils – Clayand limestone
• ’08 Vintage seems solid – long cool growing season with a lot of acidity. Slow maturation allowed good fruit
• Favorite Bottlings –
o NV Sec –method champagnois, vibrant w/ essence of pear and hint of evergreen and pineapple
o ’08 Vouvray Sec – Clean not cloying with pretty lime and citrus notes on the finish
o ’08 Moulleuxs – bright acidity balances ripe melon and quince notes
• Tasted Vouvray from hot year ’03. This wine must have acidity to be attractive
Hippolyte Reverdy – Sancerre
• Estate named after grandfather “Hyppolyte”
• 14HA
• Specialty – Sauvignon and Pinot Noir
• ‘08 and ’09 Sauvignon – Consistent zesty grapefruit and lemon curd.
• ’09 was difficult Spring with lower yield. Not hot like elsewhere
• Sancerre Rouge – Pinot Noir really good if you have the confidence to sell Sancerre Rouge
Domaine Salvard – Cheverny
• ’09 VDP Sauvignon Blanc “Unique” – Round, ripe grapefruit and healthy herbal note without urea. Fun!
• ’09 Cheverny – AOC regs mandate blend – 85% SB and 15% Chard – More round as you go East and add Chard. Less grapefruit, clean, good length
• ’09 Rose -60% Pinot/40% Gamay – Good acidity w floral notes on the nose. Elegant and dry w/ delicate cherry flavors
Domaine de Reuilly – Reuilly
• Warmest micro-climate in Loire, rare cirmidgeon limestone soil
• 100% Sauvignon Blanc
• ’09 considered the best harvest in 10 years
• ’09 Reuilly – Intense and zesty white grapefruit on the nose and in the mouth. Light and refreshing
Domaine Regis Minet – Pouilly Fume
• Sustainable, no herbicides used, all wild yeast fermented
• Clay/limestone soil
• Inox fermented
• ’09 Pouilly –Fume – Lime and buttermilk on nose with spirited lime cascading across the tongue. I find more lime notes than red grapefruit like in the Sancerre
Kermit Lynch – Loire – 2010
Joguet – Chinon
• Winemaker – FX Joguet
• Specialty – Cab Franc, single vineyard
• Organic
• Soils – Combo of Sand, Limestone, and Clay
• Harvests about 50% allowable maximum
• Factoid – Aubert D’ Villaine from DRC helped Kermit discover this property
• Favorite Bottlings –
o Cuvee Terroir – Sandy soil, aged in Inox and old oak
o Chene Vert – Clay and limestone, aged in barrique, 30% new wood, ages great. 2001 showed really exotic notes on the nose, sweet red fruit in the mouth. Fine tannins show continued potential. Bottling he seems most proud of, tasted back to ’96 w/ consistent notes – picks up leathery, shroomy, truffly note on older wines
o Clos de la Dioterie – Limestone, 80 year old vines, 2HA, clean and precise with exotic notes. Didn’t taste older bottling. Seemed to start w/ more precision than Chene Vert.
Champalou – Vouvray
• Specialty – Chenin Blanc
• Soils – Clayand limestone
• ’08 Vintage seems solid – long cool growing season with a lot of acidity. Slow maturation allowed good fruit
• Favorite Bottlings –
o NV Sec –method champagnois, vibrant w/ essence of pear and hint of evergreen and pineapple
o ’08 Vouvray Sec – Clean not cloying with pretty lime and citrus notes on the finish
o ’08 Moulleuxs – bright acidity balances ripe melon and quince notes
• Tasted Vouvray from hot year ’03. This wine must have acidity to be attractive
Hippolyte Reverdy – Sancerre
• Estate named after grandfather “Hyppolyte”
• 14HA
• Specialty – Sauvignon and Pinot Noir
• ‘08 and ’09 Sauvignon – Consistent zesty grapefruit and lemon curd.
• ’09 was difficult Spring with lower yield. Not hot like elsewhere
• Sancerre Rouge – Pinot Noir really good if you have the confidence to sell Sancerre Rouge
Domaine Salvard – Cheverny
• ’09 VDP Sauvignon Blanc “Unique” – Round, ripe grapefruit and healthy herbal note without urea. Fun!
• ’09 Cheverny – AOC regs mandate blend – 85% SB and 15% Chard – More round as you go East and add Chard. Less grapefruit, clean, good length
• ’09 Rose -60% Pinot/40% Gamay – Good acidity w floral notes on the nose. Elegant and dry w/ delicate cherry flavors
Domaine de Reuilly – Reuilly
• Warmest micro-climate in Loire, rare cirmidgeon limestone soil
• 100% Sauvignon Blanc
• ’09 considered the best harvest in 10 years
• ’09 Reuilly – Intense and zesty white grapefruit on the nose and in the mouth. Light and refreshing
Domaine Regis Minet – Pouilly Fume
• Sustainable, no herbicides used, all wild yeast fermented
• Clay/limestone soil
• Inox fermented
• ’09 Pouilly –Fume – Lime and buttermilk on nose with spirited lime cascading across the tongue. I find more lime notes than red grapefruit like in the Sancerre
Lamb on the Med
I keep ticking off experiences on my "wine" life list. Saturday night I had dinner with Frederic Brunier after collecting my customary rocks from the vineyards of Vieux Telegraphe. 6 vintages of Telegraphe going back to '81 is a great way to wash down roasted lamb over sauteed leeks and mushrooms. My circuit today included Vacqueyras, Gigondas ( with it's gorgeous views of Dentelles de Montmirail) then past the fabulous Beaucastel (where my love of the Southern Rhone really blossomed) and then back to Vieux Telegraphe. Passion for vines and wines is everywhere at this estate and it's sister property in Gigondas Domaine Pallieres. I finished my evening with a shot of Vieux Telegraphe Marc and then watched the Saints kick the Cardinals, about as good a day as a guy can have in France.
Today, yes the tastings keep going on Sunday, was my trip to the Med. I began in Cassis at Clos de Magdelene which may be the most beautiful property I've seen in the Northern hemisphere, with a classic villa perched on a cliff above the sea. Next, stop was Domaine Tempier, further from the sea but pulling power and grace from the soil and into their wines. Pretty special stuff! My favorite was "La Tourtine" Rouge, but each showed personality and uniqueness. Finally, we stopped at Gros Nore, another Bandol property, that is, in my opinion, a sleeper to watch. The color is of the Rose is the palest hue I've ever seen, giving more then impression of color than the color itself. Nervy and delicious.
At Gros Nore, we did the usual tasting, which was tasty, but we also had a Provencal feast. Mary tells me JB is roasting some lamb tonight, guess we're all on the same wavelength. There is nothing like walking into a room and seeing 3 legs of lamb hanging in the fireplace roasting over bouquet garni of rosemary and herbes de Provence. Now that's eatin'. The langostinos with the tomato coulis weren't shabby either. Not bragging here, just sharing. The food was awesome, but even better was the concept of the feast with friends. Alain Pascal from Gros Nore was a great host along with Daniel, the winemaker from Tempier, and just when I thought I couldn't check off anymore wine moments... Lulu Peyraud, the wife of Lucien Peyraud, the founder of Tempier, walks in and grabs a glass of '98 "Cabassoua." We should all be so vibrant at 90. Maybe it's all the antioxidants in those Mourvedre driven wines!
Another day has ended for me, but y'all still have time to throw some lamb on the grill. Enjoy. I'll finish watching "freakin'" Favre trample Dallas.
Sante
Today, yes the tastings keep going on Sunday, was my trip to the Med. I began in Cassis at Clos de Magdelene which may be the most beautiful property I've seen in the Northern hemisphere, with a classic villa perched on a cliff above the sea. Next, stop was Domaine Tempier, further from the sea but pulling power and grace from the soil and into their wines. Pretty special stuff! My favorite was "La Tourtine" Rouge, but each showed personality and uniqueness. Finally, we stopped at Gros Nore, another Bandol property, that is, in my opinion, a sleeper to watch. The color is of the Rose is the palest hue I've ever seen, giving more then impression of color than the color itself. Nervy and delicious.
At Gros Nore, we did the usual tasting, which was tasty, but we also had a Provencal feast. Mary tells me JB is roasting some lamb tonight, guess we're all on the same wavelength. There is nothing like walking into a room and seeing 3 legs of lamb hanging in the fireplace roasting over bouquet garni of rosemary and herbes de Provence. Now that's eatin'. The langostinos with the tomato coulis weren't shabby either. Not bragging here, just sharing. The food was awesome, but even better was the concept of the feast with friends. Alain Pascal from Gros Nore was a great host along with Daniel, the winemaker from Tempier, and just when I thought I couldn't check off anymore wine moments... Lulu Peyraud, the wife of Lucien Peyraud, the founder of Tempier, walks in and grabs a glass of '98 "Cabassoua." We should all be so vibrant at 90. Maybe it's all the antioxidants in those Mourvedre driven wines!
Another day has ended for me, but y'all still have time to throw some lamb on the grill. Enjoy. I'll finish watching "freakin'" Favre trample Dallas.
Sante
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Do Not Homogenize
Anyone that has been to a wine tasting I've hosted has heard me say that I'm opinionated and I revere different opinions because they keep things interesting. There needs to be lots of different wines with lots of different flavors, aromas, and styles. At least that's what keeps me interested, and what I find lacking in so many portfolios that seem to have the indelible thumbprint of an owner, winemaker, or importer. Each wine seems to be a snapshot in a sequence up and down a small range of flavors that really only varies between price, intensity, and color. That's right, you didn't miss anything there, I don't even find a lot of difference between the varietals, sad, sad , sad. Luckily for me, there are some importers with the courage to let the vineyards and vintners they been fortunate to work with be their own unique wines. Two that I have some intimate knowledge of are Kermit Lynch and Robert Haas. Bravo, Monsieurs!
This diversity is what we all need to keep our winelists and shelves interesting and most importantly, customers shopping. The curiosity of the palate demands that flavors be new and interesting. When are the producers, losing business in droves, going to learn this? This isn't usually an angry consumer, it's a bored consumer. Shame on anyone for resting on their laurels.
I visited 2 veterans of Cornas in the Northern Rhone, one of the world's treasured, but most demanding appellations for Syrah. August Clape and his sons do nothing more than pour themselves into each bottle of Cornas. No tricks here, just great fruit and a few lined cement tanks and huge old barrels. And year after year, with vintage variation that justifiably expresses that year's weather, you can pour a glass of their passion and taste their tiny parcels soil and Syrah. Thierry Allemand's reputation as superstar would lead many to believe they'd walk in his winery and see rows of new barriques. Nope, his barrels are 600 liter giants and the youngest one is 12 years old! These wines are rare and the vintages I tried back to '89 showed me they deserve a place in every serious cellar, lack of new oak and all.
It has been a while since I met a young agent of change, but Friday afternoon I think I met a future rock star, David Alexander Gallety of Domaine Gallety. Located in the Cotes du Vivirais, which many consider the dividing line between north and south in the Rhone, father and son toil this wild patch of vines to make a precocious and vibrant Grenache/Syrah blend. This winery screams "Look at me!" like a fun-loving child. I haven't felt as strongly about a Rhone find since I tasted D'Andezon in 1996. Just rereading my notes and thinking about that wine puts a smile on my face. I'll sign off on that note.
This diversity is what we all need to keep our winelists and shelves interesting and most importantly, customers shopping. The curiosity of the palate demands that flavors be new and interesting. When are the producers, losing business in droves, going to learn this? This isn't usually an angry consumer, it's a bored consumer. Shame on anyone for resting on their laurels.
I visited 2 veterans of Cornas in the Northern Rhone, one of the world's treasured, but most demanding appellations for Syrah. August Clape and his sons do nothing more than pour themselves into each bottle of Cornas. No tricks here, just great fruit and a few lined cement tanks and huge old barrels. And year after year, with vintage variation that justifiably expresses that year's weather, you can pour a glass of their passion and taste their tiny parcels soil and Syrah. Thierry Allemand's reputation as superstar would lead many to believe they'd walk in his winery and see rows of new barriques. Nope, his barrels are 600 liter giants and the youngest one is 12 years old! These wines are rare and the vintages I tried back to '89 showed me they deserve a place in every serious cellar, lack of new oak and all.
It has been a while since I met a young agent of change, but Friday afternoon I think I met a future rock star, David Alexander Gallety of Domaine Gallety. Located in the Cotes du Vivirais, which many consider the dividing line between north and south in the Rhone, father and son toil this wild patch of vines to make a precocious and vibrant Grenache/Syrah blend. This winery screams "Look at me!" like a fun-loving child. I haven't felt as strongly about a Rhone find since I tasted D'Andezon in 1996. Just rereading my notes and thinking about that wine puts a smile on my face. I'll sign off on that note.
Friday, January 15, 2010
Hittin' the River Road
Today I completed a couple days of serious, intense tastings in Burgundy. Last night was a vinous and culinary tour de force that really sealed the deal. I left with an exhausted set of tastebuds, but many exceptional memories. It was good throwing my suitcase in the van and knowing it was headed South. As good as they were, I was ready for a break from Chardonnay and Pinot.
Before I get to what came next though, some final reflections:
'06 Vintage - Classic, but tight and powerful.
'07 Vintage - Cool and difficult, but exciting in the hands of a great producer
'08 Vintage - Cool, but solid with a lighter style prevalent with good acidity and precision
'09 Vintage - Get in line, the press will be all over the fruit and power rolled into these wines. Reminds me of '90 in the way the way the vignerons speak of the wines.
I also had a great wine moment that reminded of some of my best friends in the business. There I was, in a wine shop in Beaune, staring longingly at a '96 Clos du Tart. '85 Clos du Tart, was and is, one of the defining moments of my career. And here it was, reminding me of the times that the wine biz has given me. Good times... (Just as a note, in 1991 those times cost $70 a throw, today they would be almost $400.) So later in the evening, surrounded by people with the same passion, I had some snails in puff pastry and chicken with a morel cream sauce while drinking '00 Raveneau Monte du Tonnerre, '02 Meo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanee "Les Chaumes" ( stunning and the best of the night!), '01 Mazi Chambertin from Maume, and '01 Bonnes Mares from Bertheau. Dollars in the glass for sure, but also liquid passion and two decades of smiles and fond memories.
My notes head South through Savigny Les Beaunes and next through Maconnais. Those of us who think we know it all have fallen into the wrong business. Maconnais, once again highlighted how little I know. New surveys show that Chardonnay isn't just growing in limestone but also clay and blue schist. Wine isn't an expression of barrel, it's an expression of soil and the humanity of the winemaker. What a joy to experience a culture where nothing is from the cookie cutter.
My pilgrimage through Beaujolais was an homage to a dear friend. I took every sip with a confident looking over my shoulder and wasn't disappointed. Beaujolais is "joie de vivre" and "bontemps roulez" in a glass. The wines and their makers exude fun and life. Work hard, party hard ,eat and drink well, do we need much more? The food was hardy and good, but most importantly life had relaxed, my palate wasn't as challenged and it finally stopped snowing. Pulling into the hotel, I got out of the van and tossed a rock into the Rhone. The river road and the South lay ahead. For the first time in a long time, I found myself craving Syrah.
Before I get to what came next though, some final reflections:
'06 Vintage - Classic, but tight and powerful.
'07 Vintage - Cool and difficult, but exciting in the hands of a great producer
'08 Vintage - Cool, but solid with a lighter style prevalent with good acidity and precision
'09 Vintage - Get in line, the press will be all over the fruit and power rolled into these wines. Reminds me of '90 in the way the way the vignerons speak of the wines.
I also had a great wine moment that reminded of some of my best friends in the business. There I was, in a wine shop in Beaune, staring longingly at a '96 Clos du Tart. '85 Clos du Tart, was and is, one of the defining moments of my career. And here it was, reminding me of the times that the wine biz has given me. Good times... (Just as a note, in 1991 those times cost $70 a throw, today they would be almost $400.) So later in the evening, surrounded by people with the same passion, I had some snails in puff pastry and chicken with a morel cream sauce while drinking '00 Raveneau Monte du Tonnerre, '02 Meo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanee "Les Chaumes" ( stunning and the best of the night!), '01 Mazi Chambertin from Maume, and '01 Bonnes Mares from Bertheau. Dollars in the glass for sure, but also liquid passion and two decades of smiles and fond memories.
My notes head South through Savigny Les Beaunes and next through Maconnais. Those of us who think we know it all have fallen into the wrong business. Maconnais, once again highlighted how little I know. New surveys show that Chardonnay isn't just growing in limestone but also clay and blue schist. Wine isn't an expression of barrel, it's an expression of soil and the humanity of the winemaker. What a joy to experience a culture where nothing is from the cookie cutter.
My pilgrimage through Beaujolais was an homage to a dear friend. I took every sip with a confident looking over my shoulder and wasn't disappointed. Beaujolais is "joie de vivre" and "bontemps roulez" in a glass. The wines and their makers exude fun and life. Work hard, party hard ,eat and drink well, do we need much more? The food was hardy and good, but most importantly life had relaxed, my palate wasn't as challenged and it finally stopped snowing. Pulling into the hotel, I got out of the van and tossed a rock into the Rhone. The river road and the South lay ahead. For the first time in a long time, I found myself craving Syrah.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Passion rather than dollars
It is beautiful to see passion and honesty motivating your approach to your job rather than just dollars. I see that kind of passion in the eyes of just about every vigneron I'm fortunate enough to meet when I'm in France. My first two days were spent in the Loire, and that is definitely the case there, but rolling around the Cotes de Beaune today, I was thrilled to see the same passion in this region of mind-boggling expensive wines (and can you believe it, not a Cabernet Sauvignon vine to be found, I'm in heaven).
Last night I had the good fortune to break bread with the Villaine's from A&P Villaine. Aubert is one of the partners in that most expensive of red wines, DRC. But Aubert's personal estate in Bouzeron is all about honesty, stewardship of the land, hospitality, and goblets of fun goodness like Aligote and Mercurey. It was fantastic to end the day of a warm plate of boeuf borgogne after the seriousness of tasting with Raveneau in Chablis.
Today I was struck by the lack of barrels and batonnage used by the producers we tasted with. I'd say 75% of the producers are also moving to organic farming within the next year or so (the time it takes to finish certification of their vineyards). Maybe there is hope for Mother Earth yet. It was also refreshing to taste wines that were never over 13% alcohol. I tasted 83 wines today and although, I'm not as sharp as I was at 9AM, my tongue isn't numb either.
In Loire, the vintages were as follows in general:
'07 - Solid, but a little lower acidity.
'08 - Solid Classic vintage with good acidity. My favorite of the 3.
'09 - Warm Vintage, on the ripe side. Should be a critically acclaimed vintage.
In the Cotes de Beaune, the vintages seem to go like this:
'06 - Classic, good structure
'07 - Ripe, but not overly so. Cool summer, but late and warm harvest. Good acid which should make cellar worthy wines. I don't find the same balance I see in '06 however.
'08 - Very cool vintage, great acidity. Really precise and tasty whites. I think the reds show a little more variabilty, but I found some tasty offerings.
Wines of the day were as follows:
Dom. Vincent - These are awesome folks. Young, but traditionally-minded and the wines are kickin'.
'08 Bourgogne Blanc
'08 Puligny Lieu Dits
'08 Auxey-Duresses Blanc
'08 Santenay 1 "Passetemps"
There are my wines of the day, but I've got to run ( and eat and drink more).
Last night I had the good fortune to break bread with the Villaine's from A&P Villaine. Aubert is one of the partners in that most expensive of red wines, DRC. But Aubert's personal estate in Bouzeron is all about honesty, stewardship of the land, hospitality, and goblets of fun goodness like Aligote and Mercurey. It was fantastic to end the day of a warm plate of boeuf borgogne after the seriousness of tasting with Raveneau in Chablis.
Today I was struck by the lack of barrels and batonnage used by the producers we tasted with. I'd say 75% of the producers are also moving to organic farming within the next year or so (the time it takes to finish certification of their vineyards). Maybe there is hope for Mother Earth yet. It was also refreshing to taste wines that were never over 13% alcohol. I tasted 83 wines today and although, I'm not as sharp as I was at 9AM, my tongue isn't numb either.
In Loire, the vintages were as follows in general:
'07 - Solid, but a little lower acidity.
'08 - Solid Classic vintage with good acidity. My favorite of the 3.
'09 - Warm Vintage, on the ripe side. Should be a critically acclaimed vintage.
In the Cotes de Beaune, the vintages seem to go like this:
'06 - Classic, good structure
'07 - Ripe, but not overly so. Cool summer, but late and warm harvest. Good acid which should make cellar worthy wines. I don't find the same balance I see in '06 however.
'08 - Very cool vintage, great acidity. Really precise and tasty whites. I think the reds show a little more variabilty, but I found some tasty offerings.
Wines of the day were as follows:
Dom. Vincent - These are awesome folks. Young, but traditionally-minded and the wines are kickin'.
'08 Bourgogne Blanc
'08 Puligny Lieu Dits
'08 Auxey-Duresses Blanc
'08 Santenay 1 "Passetemps"
There are my wines of the day, but I've got to run ( and eat and drink more).
Monday, January 11, 2010
Aaah the joys of wine and travel
I'm 2 days into the big slog...actually a day and a half. Currently, the tasty sip count stands at 95. Yeah, it looks like we'll be averaging about 50-60 wines a day. For those of you who are wondering, all of France, including the Loire, which we just left and Beaune where we just arrived, is covered in snow. I narrowly missed a dip in the Loire after the van we were riding in slid through the backyard of Pouilly Fume producer Regis Minet, right on the banks of the river. (Good work with the brakes Regis, you can drive my van anytime.)
On the food front, for those that care, here are the high points so far...skate and artichoke terrine in Tours, more interesting than tasty, wonderful goat cheese (beware super aged goat, made all the Sauvignon's taste tinny), big hunks of cured pork (almost bacon) with tooth picks, and today, a catered lunch from a 1 star in Vezelay called L'esperance. The organ meat wrapped in puff pastry with a brown sauce was incredible (James and Elaine I know you are bummed Dad didn't make you take a bite of that). For the adventurous amongst my intrepid fellows we downed a few tasty giant Normandy oysters with a salty aspic holding some fresh watercress and creme fraiche in place. I hate to brag but I did eat those creatures with '93 Raveneau Les Clos Chablis and '97 Laventureaux Chablis to wash it all down. The '97 for me was perfection.
So far the wine highlights are as follows:
'05 Raveneau "Butteaux" Chablis Premier Cru
- toffee and fresh apples were what struck me
'01 Joguet "Chene Vert" Chinon
-exotic nose with citrus and jasmine hints over soft ripe fruit
'07 Joguet "Clos de la Dioterie" Chinon
- spicy and exotic, but still a baby, my hope would be that it goes in the same direction as '01 above.
Champalou NV Sec - Gourgeous Chenin sparkling that really hit the spot after all the Cab Franc
I've got quite a few more, but need to hit the road to Bouzeron with Aubert de Villaine ( yes, the same one of DRC fame). Stay tuned. I wish all my buds and family were here. One of the days!
On the food front, for those that care, here are the high points so far...skate and artichoke terrine in Tours, more interesting than tasty, wonderful goat cheese (beware super aged goat, made all the Sauvignon's taste tinny), big hunks of cured pork (almost bacon) with tooth picks, and today, a catered lunch from a 1 star in Vezelay called L'esperance. The organ meat wrapped in puff pastry with a brown sauce was incredible (James and Elaine I know you are bummed Dad didn't make you take a bite of that). For the adventurous amongst my intrepid fellows we downed a few tasty giant Normandy oysters with a salty aspic holding some fresh watercress and creme fraiche in place. I hate to brag but I did eat those creatures with '93 Raveneau Les Clos Chablis and '97 Laventureaux Chablis to wash it all down. The '97 for me was perfection.
So far the wine highlights are as follows:
'05 Raveneau "Butteaux" Chablis Premier Cru
- toffee and fresh apples were what struck me
'01 Joguet "Chene Vert" Chinon
-exotic nose with citrus and jasmine hints over soft ripe fruit
'07 Joguet "Clos de la Dioterie" Chinon
- spicy and exotic, but still a baby, my hope would be that it goes in the same direction as '01 above.
Champalou NV Sec - Gourgeous Chenin sparkling that really hit the spot after all the Cab Franc
I've got quite a few more, but need to hit the road to Bouzeron with Aubert de Villaine ( yes, the same one of DRC fame). Stay tuned. I wish all my buds and family were here. One of the days!
Friday, January 8, 2010
And so the journey begins
I'm beginning to understand why you drink so much when get to France. All the unnecessary waiting at the airport will drive you to drink. I'm sure you are all thinking, excuses, excuses. Well, in killing some time waiting for the plane to board, I might as well tell you about my final day of training.
We all know you have to practice what you will experience in real life in order to be fully prepared. Thursday was definitely a pro-level training session 4 hours, 25 wines, and a huge lunch. I'm ready. Tasting mainly California wines really did put the exclamation point on the trip to come. Some of the highlights of the tasting were:
Renaud Macon-Villages '08- a clean, refreshing crowd-pleaser just as you would expect. The prices of the wines this little jewel beat out are too embarrassing to mention and they were all from California. Hope that earns me some hard to get stuff when I get to Burgundy.
It was hard to go wrong with the Pinot Noirs on the table, but Miner Rosella's '06 was stunning. All I need to remember that wine in my mind is "WOW!" Only 8 days into the new year, but this is best wine I've tasted in 2010. Now let's see how long they can hold the title.
On the Merlot front, the group seemed struck by Paradigm '04 and Gundlach-Bundschu ('06?) Different price-points, but both delicioso.
Finishing with the Cab-based wine that caught my taste-buds, I was taken with the new Cain Concept ('06?). This was blending done right, with layers of fruit and spice that really left me feeling this was an onion I was willing to peel.
I'm anxious to dive into some Cab Franc in the next 24 hours. With Loire the first stop on the tour, I'm not going to be anxious much longer. Ah, and what to accompany a lovely Chinon?...I'll let you know, stay tuned...
Here's a shout-out as promised to my junior tasters - Elaine and James. Hope you are reading Dad's writing, it's good practice.
We all know you have to practice what you will experience in real life in order to be fully prepared. Thursday was definitely a pro-level training session 4 hours, 25 wines, and a huge lunch. I'm ready. Tasting mainly California wines really did put the exclamation point on the trip to come. Some of the highlights of the tasting were:
Renaud Macon-Villages '08- a clean, refreshing crowd-pleaser just as you would expect. The prices of the wines this little jewel beat out are too embarrassing to mention and they were all from California. Hope that earns me some hard to get stuff when I get to Burgundy.
It was hard to go wrong with the Pinot Noirs on the table, but Miner Rosella's '06 was stunning. All I need to remember that wine in my mind is "WOW!" Only 8 days into the new year, but this is best wine I've tasted in 2010. Now let's see how long they can hold the title.
On the Merlot front, the group seemed struck by Paradigm '04 and Gundlach-Bundschu ('06?) Different price-points, but both delicioso.
Finishing with the Cab-based wine that caught my taste-buds, I was taken with the new Cain Concept ('06?). This was blending done right, with layers of fruit and spice that really left me feeling this was an onion I was willing to peel.
I'm anxious to dive into some Cab Franc in the next 24 hours. With Loire the first stop on the tour, I'm not going to be anxious much longer. Ah, and what to accompany a lovely Chinon?...I'll let you know, stay tuned...
Here's a shout-out as promised to my junior tasters - Elaine and James. Hope you are reading Dad's writing, it's good practice.
Friday, January 1, 2010
New Year's Eve Training Regimen
A close friend, Jim Broderick, told me about 18 years ago that the hardest thing about travelling in France is training your body to eat and drink for 16 hours a day for 2 weeks after a poor night of sleep. Truer words never spoken. So, I'm in training and given that it was New Year's Eve last night, I'm waking up from a hard workout.
Is anything really coincidence? All I know is I've watched Rocky and Rocky II this morning, so there is that training theme in the air. I can positively say, however, that I feel better than Rocky after the first bout with Apollo Creed. Thank God those noisemakers didn't work when my daughter grab one this morning, another lucky day. More coincidence, I was training with my own Burgess Meridith, Jim Broderick, last night. I'll run with Rocky theme, and tell you all, I've got the "eye of the tiger."
I'm not a "smiler", but I have been told I'm generally a "glass half full " thinker. As we were preparing toasts, my wife and I, we getting ready to blurt out "Here's to a better 2010!", when we were reminded by the moustachioed and quietly, ascerbic, yet impossibly optimistic (in the New York style), wine guru that 2009 was pretty "freakin'" good year for the Perkins family. So let me remind myself, it was a "freakin'" good year and 2010 will be even better!
Ok, back to the training. Do you ever notice that in the movies, the training sequences are dramatic, but short. I'd guess that's because to everybody that isn't really in the room it's boring. Sorry prepared to be bored, Rocky was training when the cameras weren't rolling.
Being a self-professed wine nerd and minutiae addict here's my version of one-armed push ups:
Hopler Blaufrankisch to set the mood. Fun, festive, and uncomplicated donated to the cause by a worthy sparring partner, Sara Guterbock.
Bellavista Franciacorta to honor those fun, crazy Italians and remind us what New Year's is supposed to be about Bubbles! Clean and vivacious with tantalizing berry aromatics. A solid sparkler that screams "crowded bar in fancy Italian restaurant." Spirited.
Then, 6 different cheeses, prosciutto, and liver mousse to exercise those abdominal muscles.
A single blind tasting was the next event with RH Coutier Brut, a Brut Reserva Cava (Sorry, Greatmama always said, "If you can't say something nice don't say anything at all." So my policy here will be to leave the underachievers un-named. Plus Rocky didn't like being kicked when he was down.) and Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvee Brut. Damn, we were good or maybe the wines just stuck out like "stylistic" sore thumbs. Either way, these tasty morsels didn't fool anyone. It was a split decision, between the richer Coutier and the more crisp and clean Paillard. Admiring both, my vote went to the sublime and ethereal Paillard.
As a side, we put a little Prosecco from San Simone in the ring with the Cava and in my opinion the little Italian street fighter won another easy knockout. It wasn't classy, but it was honest and tasty with beautiful white peach aromatics and bargain pricing. My hat is off ,as always, to the fantastic Brisotto family who make this wine.
Every fighter needs nutrition and while the gumbo I'd been nurturing for 5 days will never be described as ethereal, it was good, earthy, and real. That's the kind of stuff we like in my training camp. The main event never arrives early and I thought we might need another red to cleanse the palate for the big boy to come. Ouch, what a mistake, I just can't wrap my head around tricked up, monolithic, Tempranillo. I guess, neither could my compadres.
Luckily, Krug Grand Cuvee arrived on the scene. Nutty, yeasty and infinitely rich and complex. This Champagne had us all thinking wine. A stunner and the winner by KO. I'd say when the bell rang on the last round we came into 2010 with style. Here's to hard training and the New Year!
Is anything really coincidence? All I know is I've watched Rocky and Rocky II this morning, so there is that training theme in the air. I can positively say, however, that I feel better than Rocky after the first bout with Apollo Creed. Thank God those noisemakers didn't work when my daughter grab one this morning, another lucky day. More coincidence, I was training with my own Burgess Meridith, Jim Broderick, last night. I'll run with Rocky theme, and tell you all, I've got the "eye of the tiger."
I'm not a "smiler", but I have been told I'm generally a "glass half full " thinker. As we were preparing toasts, my wife and I, we getting ready to blurt out "Here's to a better 2010!", when we were reminded by the moustachioed and quietly, ascerbic, yet impossibly optimistic (in the New York style), wine guru that 2009 was pretty "freakin'" good year for the Perkins family. So let me remind myself, it was a "freakin'" good year and 2010 will be even better!
Ok, back to the training. Do you ever notice that in the movies, the training sequences are dramatic, but short. I'd guess that's because to everybody that isn't really in the room it's boring. Sorry prepared to be bored, Rocky was training when the cameras weren't rolling.
Being a self-professed wine nerd and minutiae addict here's my version of one-armed push ups:
Hopler Blaufrankisch to set the mood. Fun, festive, and uncomplicated donated to the cause by a worthy sparring partner, Sara Guterbock.
Bellavista Franciacorta to honor those fun, crazy Italians and remind us what New Year's is supposed to be about Bubbles! Clean and vivacious with tantalizing berry aromatics. A solid sparkler that screams "crowded bar in fancy Italian restaurant." Spirited.
Then, 6 different cheeses, prosciutto, and liver mousse to exercise those abdominal muscles.
A single blind tasting was the next event with RH Coutier Brut, a Brut Reserva Cava (Sorry, Greatmama always said, "If you can't say something nice don't say anything at all." So my policy here will be to leave the underachievers un-named. Plus Rocky didn't like being kicked when he was down.) and Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvee Brut. Damn, we were good or maybe the wines just stuck out like "stylistic" sore thumbs. Either way, these tasty morsels didn't fool anyone. It was a split decision, between the richer Coutier and the more crisp and clean Paillard. Admiring both, my vote went to the sublime and ethereal Paillard.
As a side, we put a little Prosecco from San Simone in the ring with the Cava and in my opinion the little Italian street fighter won another easy knockout. It wasn't classy, but it was honest and tasty with beautiful white peach aromatics and bargain pricing. My hat is off ,as always, to the fantastic Brisotto family who make this wine.
Every fighter needs nutrition and while the gumbo I'd been nurturing for 5 days will never be described as ethereal, it was good, earthy, and real. That's the kind of stuff we like in my training camp. The main event never arrives early and I thought we might need another red to cleanse the palate for the big boy to come. Ouch, what a mistake, I just can't wrap my head around tricked up, monolithic, Tempranillo. I guess, neither could my compadres.
Luckily, Krug Grand Cuvee arrived on the scene. Nutty, yeasty and infinitely rich and complex. This Champagne had us all thinking wine. A stunner and the winner by KO. I'd say when the bell rang on the last round we came into 2010 with style. Here's to hard training and the New Year!
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